Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
