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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.